Game Changers:In historic fashion parade, rapper Emicida releases his clothing line at São Paulo Fashion Week with cast featuring 90% black models

Lab

In an historical parade, Emicida puts black and overweight models on as protagonists in SPFW with his clothing line

It took a rapper invading the catwalk to show the obvious: a parade with mostly black models is as or more beautiful than a parade of Scandinavian whites. There is no possible argument after watching the the LAB parade.

By  Wendy Candido (Rap Nacional Download) with info from Ego, Vogue, Elle, M de Mulher

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The second day of parades of São Paulo Fashion Week ended in a grand and exciting way, and certainly made history on Monday (October 24th) with the debut of the Laboratório Fantasma, the clothing line of rapper Emicida and his brother Evandro Fióti.

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With a casting, comprised of 90% black models, the mission of the brand at the event was to bring the fashion world a more inclusive, democratic discourse, and, of course, representativeness.

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The main objective of LAB, as the line is affectionately known, is to show the diversity and freedom from all knowledge of the struggle of black people throughout the world and the harsh reality of everyday life of the broken, very well known by the brothers Emicida and Fióti.

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The collection, which is called Yasuke, the name given to black Samurais, had creative direction of João Pimenta, a renowned designer who participated in SPFW for years, and mixes Eastern, African and street influences. Under the blessing of Emicida, the pieces were presented by people of all types (black, fat, tall, short…) escaping from world standards of the catwalks and representing those who we see on the streets every day, that is, real people, who consumes a lot of fashion and often only don’t consume more because most brands bar offering offer sizes that go past 44. In short, the LAB parade is nothing like what the one is accustomed to seeing at the São Paulo fashion week.

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Entre the looks, all in black, white and red, the singers Seu Jorge and Ellen Oléria also paraded in what was a great celebration of cultura afro and national rap.

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In an interview with Vogue, Emicida detailed he how deals with the similarities between the creative processes in music and fashion.

“Creation is a blank sheet on all platforms. Creating a track or designing shirt, what I want is to tell a story. This is a delicious sensation.”

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For its first participation in SPFW, the line came with a lot of maturity, full of innovation and authenticity – Watch the whole parade, complete with an Emicida rhyme.

Knowing full well the importance of the visual of his parade, the rapper and his brother explained the vision they had for the parade.

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“We put on the catwalk ordinary people, who deal with reality. We see a many things, not only in fashion, that don’t reflect the reality of the country. We are showing what Brazil is,” Emicida said. When asked about the casting of the models, the rapper replied:

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“In general, people look at the catwalk here and it seems that they’re looking at the catwalks of Sweden. We can look at the casting of our show through the lens of the occupation and also the representation of beauty, self-esteem and elegance. For a long time it was not associated with pessoas pretas e à periferia (black people and the periphery). What we are doing now is getting all this back. Evandro and I participated in the choice of each person to participate, we didn’t leave this decision in the hands of anyone. And we didn’t go only by the profile, we also exchanged an idea to know who they were.”

“We aren’t not making any kind of protest. Just portraying Brazil as it really is. Fashion has to be inclusive and not generate grief or destroy dreams,” Fióti said. “We want to show a Brazil rarely or never seen in this structure of the fashion week. LAB wins with the entry in the line-up and the SPFW wins with the veracity of our work. This may reflect positively in the minds of many people, hopefully act as a further help to change thoughts and attitudes of the entire ecosystem of the industry. That’s what I hope to garner,” he concludes.

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The models celebrated. “The idea is very cool. Society needs to see that there is room for everyone. If it was the reverse, with mostly whites, no one would find it strange,” said Arthur Lopes. “I thought the initiative was incredible. In other clothing lines, when there are two black girls it’s a lot,” said Natiele Alves.

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The challenge to a SPFW that’s usually lilly white was also not missed by Elle magazine:

“In Emicida’s show, he really wanted to reflect on the beauty of the streets, of the public using their clothes and not bending toward the standards. […] It’s clear that the rapper was keen to reverse the percentage and put on a beautiful display of 90% black versus 10% white to show how a more colorful world of fashion would be. And whoever saw it, knows: it’s beautiful, proud, with intelligent and desirable clothes.”

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Are black and money are rival words???

By Bruno Rico

We must learn to recognize something historic, and this week something happened up for history, which was the launch of the brand Lab, by rapper Emicida and his brother Fióti, in the biggest fashion event in Latin America, São Paulo Fashion Week.

The launch was historic for many reasons, the parade managed to insert practically all the elements that everybody involved in militancy always complain of not having, and when it has it, here come people complaining, and that my text today is especially directed to this group.

First it is important to say that the Laboratório Fantasma has been around for a long time in the market, it functions as a record label, producer, cultural vehicle, etc.; I can say that I’m talking about a collective created to promote hip-hop, urban and black culture in general, in addition to other things, and of these things emerged a clothing brand, which until recently sold the clothes of its latest collection for the single price of R$14.00. All this already shows how Emicida was always a man ahead of his time, a born artist, a visionary entrepreneur, black with no strings attached, and he is more than right, as our ancestors were already tied up for too long, the equivalent of several future generations, and now this next generation is saying we have to be imprisoned again, this doesn’t cut it anymore!

In spite of already having done a lot, Emicida decided to go beyond, and from  Laboratório Fantasma he launched a collection that comes with a new look, getting his foot in the door of the fashion market.

In my thirty years, I’ve never seen a black guy who rose from poverty to launching his clothing brand and already the guy launches it in an event that is a world reference in terms of fashion. If this isn’t showing off to you, for me, it’s a lot!

Another extremely important point of the parade, and for me the most important of all is the question of representativeness, because almost all models were black, not to mention the designer was also, and is this not what the guys are always complaining? In addition, the brand even bothered to put on overweight models, but I’m not talking about those chubby ones with no stomach that appear in most plus size fashion shows, I’m talking about gordo de verdade (the real fat ones), people who need 5G clothes, and with Lab they will find these cloths.

Mas Emicida and his brother Fióti could have just been around there, after all, a bunch of blacks together in a walkway was a lot of already, and already would be an achievement, but they still went further, as the brand even bothered to release prints with African themes, all connected to the history of Yasuke, a black samurai that I had never heard of, but that I learned about thanks to Lab. Look how sensational this was! You launch a brand and still convey culture with all of this; search for Yasuke, the parade was cool, there’s a cartoon and everything and all the kids will fall in love with it. Soon, I’ll release a book called Piye, which is already ready, only missing a publisher, and Piye, for those who do not know, was the first great black Pharaoh of Egypt, so I thought the history of Yasuke was sensational.

In the midst of such representation, we still had as models: musician Seu Jorge, actress Cris Vianna, rapper Karol Conka, Rashid, the former Globeleza Nayara Justino, who was practically fired from the post for ser preta demais (being too black), remember her? Well then, all of this crowd was there, among many others, including models who live in slums.

But all of this wasn’t enough, there were still a lot of people complaining, and gente preta(black people), because I didn’t see white people commenting on the matter, and even I saw them, it wouldn’t matter to me, because what bothers me most is when I see blacks criticizing blacks, especially when that black seems to concern himself with the evolution of the other black, because I can only understand it in this way, as in my Facebook I already questioned three siblings that were against to the show, I asked them to show me a solution, in regards to the problem they had submitted, only that so far no one has responded.

To be continued…

Back to Africa, Amaros versus Americos a tale of two stories

Amaros – Positive asssimilation

 

The Amaros, who were sometimes called Nago in Brazil (Nago, indicates Yoruba ethnicity) were liberated slaves from Brazil and Cuba. Returnees from Brazil and Cuba and their current-day descendants were and are more commonly called “Agudas”. They went to the New World as slaves from different sub-ethnic and ethnic backgrounds but approached relationships among themselves as equals. They came back to Nigeria, principally to re-connect with their fatherland. In Lagos, they were given the watery terrains of Popo Aguda as their settlement. They were not brought up in the Anglican faith like the Sierra Leoneans but chose Catholicism, the dominant religion in Brazil and Cuba. By the 1880s, the Agudas comprised about 9% of the population of Lagos. It should be remembered that some of the Agudas were Muslims. Some of the Catholic Brazilians and Cubans also worshipped African Orishas which they had also worshipped in Brazil and Cuba. These Amaros gave Portuguese and Spanish names in Nigeria.

The Brazilian returnees were notably technically skilled artisans and were known for the distinctive Brazilian architecture built in their settlements and later in the Lagos environs. During the time, modern European architecture was not only meant to be a nice abode but also a dominating advertisement to show Africans of a different style and culture.[8] However, in due time, the Brazilian style emerged as a viable alternative and modern style used by African contractors working on public and large private jobs such as the Holy Cross Cathedral in Lagos and the Mohammed Shitta Bey Mosque. The Brazilians introduced to Nigeria elaborate architectural designs, two-story buildings and bungalows with stucco facades. The Brazilian returnees also popularized the use of Cassava as a food crop.[9] They had pioneered trade with Brazil in the mid nineteenth century. But by the 1880s, ruinous competitors and an economic downturn had forced many to abandon the export trade. Agriculture soon became an avenue to supplement shortfalls in economic activity. They also introduced Cocoa Plantations together with Saro, J.P.L. Davies

 

migrants from Brazil and Cuba.[1] Saros and Amaros also settled in other West African countries such as the Gold Coast (Ghana).  Latin American countries such as Brazil and Cuba. Liberated “returnee” Africans from Brazil were more commonly known as “Agudas”, from the word àgùdà in the Yoruba language. Most of the Latin American returnees or Amaros started migrating to Africa after slavery was abolished on the continent. Many of the returnees chose to return to Nigeria for cultural, missionary and economic reasons. Many (if not the greater majority) of them were originally descended from the Yoruba of western and central Nigeria.

The returnees mostly resided in the Lagos Colony, with substantial populations in Abeokuta and Ibadan. Some also settled in Calabar, Port Harcourt and other cities in the Niger Delta. Though, many were originally dedicated Anglophiles in Nigeria, they later adopted an indigenous and patriotic attitude on Nigerian affairs due to a rise in discrimination in the 1880s,[2] and were later known as cultural nationalists.

(The late Nigerian billionaire, was a descendent of Amaros)

Image result for Deinde Fernandez
Americo Liberians – From slaves to slave masters

“The love of liberty brought us here”, was the motto of some 13,000 persons who crossed the Atlantic to create new settlements on the Grain Coast of West Africa between 1817 and 1867 with the aid of the American Colonization Society.

The majority of African Americans who set sail for Africa were educated free blacks who owned property and hailed from Maryland and Virginia.warfare between the Americo-Liberians and the indigenous groups.

“The blacks from America who went to Liberia took with them the worst lessons of the ante-bellum South,” said Williams. “They treated the Africans they met there the way the slaveholders in the American South treated them.”

Still, they struggled. The farming techniques they learned in Pennsylvania and North Carolina were inappropriate in Liberia’s tropical climate. There was no “mother country” to provide financial support, and the colonists received very little support from the ACS, which was always in debt.

 

The early settlers practiced their Christian faith, sometimes in combination with traditional African religious beliefs. They spoke an African American Vernacular English, and few ventured into the interior or mingled with local African peoples. They developed an Americo-Liberian society, culture and political organization that was strongly influenced by their roots in the United States, particularly the country’s Southeast.

Today, the Americo-Liberian population numbers about 150,000. Americo-Liberians were credited for Liberia’s largest and longest economic expansion, especially William V. S. Tubman, who did much to promote foreign investment and to bridge the economic, social, and political gaps between the descendants of the original settlers and the inhabitants of the interior.[3] Most of the powerful old Americo-Liberian families fled to the United States in the 1980s after President William Tolbert was assassinated in a military coup.

Making up about 5% of the Liberian population, Americo-Liberians dominated national politics from the founding of the colony until Samuel Doe led a military coup in 1980. There is debate about how Americo-Liberians held on to power for so long. Some attribute it to the fact that divisions were based on “light-skin vs. dark skin”, particularly because the first president was of mixed race, as were numerous immigrants, reflecting the nature of African-American society in the Upper South. Scholars have noted, however, that during the Americo-Liberian reign, the leaders had an array of skin colors and African-European admixture, meaning that theory is unlikely. It is more likely they built their power on their connections to the ACS, familiarity with American culture and economics, and ability to create a network of shared interests. Others believe their long reign was in part due to the Masonic Order of Liberia, a fraternal organization, as opposed to colorism. A marble Masonic Lodge was built in 1867 as one of Monrovia’s most impressive buildings. It was considered a bastion of Americo-Liberian power, and was strong enough to survive the civil war. After years of neglect after the war the Masonic order has repaired the lodge.[4]

The Americo-Liberian settlers were, from the beginning, essentially American rather than African in outlook and orientation. They retained preferences for western modes of dress, Southern plantation-style homes, American food, Christianity, the English language, and monogamous kinship practices. The settlers held land individually in contrast to the communal ownership of the African population and their political institutions were modeled on those of the United States with an elected president, a legislature made up of a Senate and a House of Representatives, and a supreme court. They seldom intermarried with indigenous Africans and tried to influence the interior inhabitants primarily through evangelization and trade.

But the nation as a whole struggled. Americo-Liberians, based mainly around Monrovia, denied the native tribes the right to vote under the new constitution and even used them as forced labor. It was the beginning of more than 100 years of totalitarian rule by the colonists.

According to Carl P. Burrowes, co-author of The Historical Dictionary of Liberia, an alliance between executive branch officials and local traditional rulers helped Americo-Liberians keep their grip on power. Local chiefs delivered bloc votes to urban leaders during elections.Reflecting the system of racial segregation in the United States, the Americo-Liberians created a cultural and racial caste system with themselves at the top and indigenous Liberians at the bottom.[13][14][15] They believed in a form of racial equality by which meant that all residents of Liberia had the potential of to become “civilized” through conversion to Christianity and western-style education

The graft culminated during the 1923 election when incumbent candidate D. B. King received 45,000 votes at a time when only 6,000 voters were legally registered. “[It] earn[ed] Liberia a dubious place in the Guinness Book of Records for the world’s most rigged election,” Burrowes wrote via e-mail.

Over the years, the U.S. government took little interest in Liberia other than as a military and intelligence outpost. In 1926, the Firestone Tyre and Rubber Company opened its largest rubber factory in the world in Liberia. It quickly became the backbone of the Liberian economy, and as recently as the 1970s, Liberia’s per capita income was equal to Japan’s.

But ordinary Liberians grew increasingly angry at the corrupt rule of the Americo-Liberian “True Whig” party. In 1979, riots convulsed Monrovia when President William R. Tolbert Jr., whose family was the biggest importer of rice in Liberia, proposed an increase in the price of the commodity.

A year later, Tolbert was killed and 13 of his ministers shot on a beach during a coup led by Master Sergeant Samuel Doe that destroyed the old dominance of the Americo-Liberians and set in motion a cycle of violence

 

In 1980, a violent military coup was led by Samuel Doe. Doe’s tenure as leader of Liberia led to a period of civil wars, resulting in destruction of the country’s economy. In the early 21st century, Liberia has been reduced to one of the most impoverished nations in the world, in which most of the population lives below the international poverty line.

 The Tabom people
 The Tabom People or Agudas refers to the Afro-Brazilian community in South of Ghana. The Tabom People are an Afro-Brazilian community of former slavesreturnees. When they arrived in South Ghana and Accra and they could speak only Portuguese, so they greeted each other with “Como está?” (How are you?) to which the reply was “Tá bom”,[1] so the Ewe people, Ga-Adangbe people and Akan people in of South Ghana and Accra started to call them the Tabom People.

The Afro-Brazilian descendants and community in South Ghana dates back to one study from the 19th century that between an estimated 3,000 and 8,000 former slaves decided to return to Africa.[2]

Up to now it is not very clear, if the Tabom really bought their freedom and decided to immediately come back or if they were at that time free workers in Brazil, they came after the Malê Revolt of 1835 in Bahia. A lot of Afro-Brazilians when percecuted found their way back to Ghana, Togo, Bennin and Nigeria especially those who organised the Malê Revolt.[2] In Ghana it is common to find family names like de Souza, Silva, or Cardoso. Some of them have been very well known in Ghana.[2] The first Brazilian Ambassador to Ghana, Raymundo de Souza Dantas, arrived in 1961.[

In Ghana, the representative group of people that decided to come back from Brazil is the Tabom People. They came back on a ship called SS Salisbury, offered by the British government. About seventy Afro-Brazilians of seven different families arrived in South Ghana and Accra, in the region of the old port in James Town in 1836.[2] The reception by the Mantse Nii Ankrah of the Otublohum area was so warm that they decided to settle down in Accra.[2] The leader of the Tabom group at the time of their arrival was a certain Nii Azumah Nelson.[2]The eldest son of Azumah Nelson, Nii Alasha, was his successor and a very close friend to the Ga King Nii Tackie Tawiah.[2] Together they helped in the development of the whole community in commerce.[2]

At the present moment the Tabom Mantse is Nii Azumah V, descendant of the Nelson’s. The Taboms are also known as the founders of the First Scissors House in 1854, the first tailoring shop in the country, which had amongst other activities, the task to provide the Ghanaian Army with uniforms.[2] Proof of these skills is without any doubt Dan Morton, another Tabom and one of the most famous tailors nowadays in Accra.[2]

In Ghana, the de Souza family can be found around Osu, Kokomele and other parts of the Greater Accra regionand South Ghana. Sekondi-Takoradi and Cape Coast are also other bases.[2] Almost all of them remained along the costal regions of South Ghana.[2] However, it is very common to see a De Souza, a Wellington, a Benson, a Palmares, a Nelson, an Azumah, Amorin, Da Costa, Santos, De Medeiros, Olympio and other Afro-Brazilians in Ghana speaking perfect Ga-Adangbe language, Ewe language and Akan language. [2] This is because most of the Afro-Brazilian people got married to Ewe andGa-Adangbes and Akans [2]

Because they were welcomed by the Ewe people, Ga-Adangbe people and Akan people and received by their kings as personal guests, the Taboms received lands in privileged locations, in places that are nowadays very well known estates, like Asylum Down, the area near to the central train station and around the Accra Brewery Company.[2] In those areas, the mango trees planted by them bear silent witnesses to their presence. In the estate of North Ridge there is a street called “Tabom Street”, which is a reminder of the huge plantations that they formerly had there.[2] Some of the Taboms live nowadays in James Town, where the first house built and used by them as they arrived in South Ghana is located.[2] It is called the “Brazil House” and can be found in a short street with the name “Brazil Lane”.[2] Because of their agricultural skills, they started plantations of mango, cassava, beans and other vegetables. They brought also skills such as irrigationtechniques, architecture, carpentry, blacksmithing, gold smithing, tailoring, amongst others, which certainly improved the quality of life of the whole community.[2]

Nowadays the Taboms are completely integrated in the Ghanaian society and are a part of the Ga-Adangbe People, Ewe People and Akan Peopl

Best Places for Black people to Learn Portuguese/Os Melhores Lugares para aprender portugues

1. Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

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2. Lisbon, Portugal

3. Luanda, Angola

4. Salvador, Brazil

5. Sao Paulo, Brazil

6. Maputo, Mozambique

7. Praia, Cape Verde

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8. Curitiba

9. Brasillia

10. Balneauriu Camboiriu

Balneário Camboriú

Richest Portuguese speaking cities

  1. Brasillia $35,000

2. Lisbon $19,000

50% of people who speak Portuguese are Black

Best Black Majority Portuguese Speaking Societies

  1. Luanda
  2. Salvador
  3. Rio de Janeiro
  4. Manaus
  5. Maputo

Portuguese Media

Rede Globo –

Globo is the largest commercial TV network in South America and the second-largest commercial TV network in annual revenue worldwide just behind the American ABC Television Network[3] and the largest producer of telenovelas.[4]

Shows

Windeck

 

 

 

Jobs you can do

Portuguese Translators

  1. Boston
  2. Miami

Job

Driving around Africa : Luanda and Benguela, Angola

Luanda is the capital and largest city of Angola. It has a city population of 2,825,311 and a metropolitan population of 6,542,942 . It is the world’s third most populous Portuguese-speaking city, behind only São Paulo and Rio de Janeiro, both in Brazil, and the most populous Portuguese-speaking capital city in the world, ahead of Brasília, Maputo and Lisbon.

The city is currently undergoing a major reconstruction, with many large developments taking place that will alter the cityscape significantly. Many changes are happening in this city.

__Luanda

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Luanda 2

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The New Sonangol Towers

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This shopping mall is also being expanded

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Luanda is planning a metro system

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15189986892_d4f3b3b3cc_b  Luanda, the capital of oil-rich Angola, is the most expensive city in the world for expatriates to live in while London is now cheaper than Rio de Janeiro, Hong Kong and Sydney, a survey has revealedtimthumb

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Driving around Africa: Maputo, Mozambique

Maputo is the capital and largest city of Mozambique. It is known as the City of Acacias, in reference to acacia trees commonly found along its avenues, and the Pearl of the Indian Ocean. Today, it is a port city on the Indian Ocean, with its economy centered on the harbour. According to the 2007 census, the population is 1,766,184.[

 

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=llwYg89yMho